Moosewood Low-Fat Favorites Review
Moosewood Collective’s 11th Vegetarian Cookbook
Talented Moosewood Restaurant owners compile exciting, exotic recipes that are low-fat but retain flavour.
The book: The Moosewood Collective (1996). Moosewood Restaurant Low-Fat Favorites. Clarkson Potter/Publishers, New York, New York.
Awards: James Beard / KitchenAid Cookbook Award.
The Claim: "Flavourful Recipes for Healthful Meals"
The Authors: The Moosewood Collective comprises about 20 owners who, for the past 30 years, have run the phenomenally successful Moosewood restaurant out of Ithaca, New York. Their 11 cookbooks have influenced generations of home cooks looking for tasty, satisfying meatless offerings.
Audience, Scope and Style
Moosewood recipes are moderately complex; many with long ingredient lists and less-than-common vegetables. For vegetarian cookery beginners, there is an extensive glossary, cooking basics and tips at the back of the book.
When Low-Fat Favorites was published, “fat” was a bad word. Now, we know that some fats are healthy, but this does not render the book irrelevant. In most recipes, the Collective cuts down on added fat (such as oil or butter), but remain dedicated to a whole foods approach by advocating moderation and plant-based fats like avocado and olive oil.
On average, 16% of the recipe calories come from fat; much lower than the current less than 30% wisdom. Vegans especially tend to have low fat intakes anyway. Using recipes from this book leaves a little bit of dietary wiggle room…or room for dessert.
The Recipes
Moosewood cooking has always focused on fresh, organic, seasonal produce and high quality ingredients. Vegan recipes are indexed at the back, though dairy products and eggs are commonly used throughout. Several recipes include fish or fish products like bonito broth. The nutritional breakdown is given for each recipe. Using the meal suggestions following each recipe is an easy way to experiment with new recipes.
The recipes are separated based on meal categories and main ingredients. There are chapters for breakfast, appetizers, soups, breads/sandwiches, salads, beans, grains, pasta, other main dishes, stews, fish, side dishes, dressings/sauces/seasonings, and desserts.
The Food
There are no “beige” recipes in Moosewood cookbooks; each has its own story. Maybe that is why this cookbook reads like a novel! Who could put down a page-turner that starts with winning appetizers like Guacamole with Asparagus (p. 25), Nori Rolls (p. 37) or Eggplant Strata (p. 32)?
After extensive recipe testing, only a few of the recipes didn’t work out for this semi-experienced cook. Perhaps the Rice Balls (p. 35) will stick together will a little bit more skill and patience. Many of the recipes take an hour or two to prepare, but when time is available they are worth a splurge. The soup broths are all made from scratch. Crepes (p. 56) turned out perfectly, even for someone who had never made crepes before.
Traditional ethnic specialties have been revamped as vegetarian or vegan entrees, meaning there are flavour combinations here that many meatless diners may not have ever tried. How about a Chilean Carbonada (pg. 98) or Caribbean Sweet Potato Salad (p. 137)?
The Downside
The ethnic fusions in Low-Fat Favorites mean ingredients can be hard to find. Usually, substitutions are listed but may not be any easier to locate; for example, readers are instructed to use Chinese five-spice bean curd (tofu) if Tofu-Kan is not available. Ingredients like maple syrup and evaporated milk make some of the recipes pricier than their full-fat, white sugar counterparts.
Low-Fat Favorites is sometimes overzealous when cutting fat. In a cake made with applesauce and only a touch of oil, is it really necessary to use egg whites instead of whole eggs? Some recipes would definitely benefit from a reversion to the full-fat versions. Black Bean Chilequile (p. 164) for example, would benefit from sparse use of full-fat sharp cheddar rather than a more generous sprinkling of fat-free cheese.
The Bottom Line
For those averse to vegetarian, healthy, low-fat or vegetable-rich cooking, Moosewood Restaurant Low-Fat Favorites is a great place to start getting over those fears. The vegetables are so colourful and full of flavour that they become less intimidating. Anyone who relies on this book will have difficulty not stopping at the market on the way home to pick up fresh herbs and leafy greens.
Moosewood recipes are also a breath of fresh air for more seasoned cooks who need a break from their weekly menus or a new challenge.
On social occasions, it is safe to choose nearly any recipe in this book and expect success. Tamale Pie (p. 162 ) is a repeat favourite.
The ingredients are fresh, unprocessed and do not rely heavily on soy. There are offerings for vegans, vegetarians, and pescatarians alike. With nearly 500 pages of ideas to consume, Moosewood Restaurant Low-Fat Favorites is sure to become a household favorite.
